Motorcycle jackets are more than a fashion statement for a rider, they can be an integral part of keeping you safe.
That safety aspect being two-fold; the one people think of most related to abrasion & impact resistance, but the other being what exposure to the elements will do to your concentration on the bike.
When you are shivering, soaked, sweltering, or bruised & contused from bugs and road debris hitting you at speed. That discomfort leads to distraction which may end your ride early at best, or in a local ER at worst. So follow me on a deep dive into choosing a jacket that suits your personal needs.
Riding Conditions
Photo Credits: Chris Henry, Jeremy Bishop, Egor Myznik, & Sabda Rhamadhoni
How a jacket performs will vary greatly based on the climate, season, and general conditions you use it in. A jacket may perform amazingly in the Fall/Spring in one region, while being insufferable in a different season or geographic area. A race suit is great on the track and pretty good for most riding, but can be a pain for touring or commuting.
Climate & Weather
Riding through high deserts, plains, & forests you are likely to have three very different experiences from the same jacket. Ride through those areas in different parts of the year and it will likely yield a quite different experience in each of those again.
Any '4 season' jackets are a bit of a stretch unless you live in an exceptionally mild climate. Number and types of venting, along with removable liners, and waterproofing will extend the versatility of a jacket to deal with changing weather conditions. However realistically you will generally manage 2 1/2 to 3 seasons in reasonable comfort, after which your personal tolerances for sweating or shivering may leave you with some regrets.
If your riding conditions tend to be warm and fair weather only, then it's probably not worth investing in a jacket designed to straddle all conditions and optimize for that use case. While if you commute or are subject to rapidly changing weather conditions a jack of all trades option may be appropriate, even if it truly is a master of none.
Most people will be best served by dedicated hot and cold weather options along with some supplemental rain gear, vs. attempting to find that one jacket to rule them all.
Storage
An often overlooked consideration is storage; as bikes tend not to have tons of places to stow things you might want on the ride, the number/type/size of pockets can be an important feature. I'd much rather be able to stuff something small into a pocket when possible leaving it easily accessible vs. wearing a backpack or managing luggage I may need to carry around or secure when off the bike.
Speed & Risk
For the most part any basic jacket can work for the majority of situations; be that on road or off road.
If you're doing slower and lower risk riding with a fair amount of time spent off the bike there's certainly no need to look like a storm-trooper or power-ranger, unless you want to. Strike a compromise that balances between safety and comfort that to you seems appropriate.
However, keep in mind when your speed doubles the amount of kinetic energy behind your motion quadruples. Going parking lot speeds with a long sleeve cotton shirt might barely be enough save your skin. At 30mph you're carrying 4 times the energy, so if you need to bring a lot more abrasion resistance. If you're going 60mph you are carrying 16 times more energy than at parking lot speeds, so abrasion resistance needs to increase in step.
Likewise higher risk riding demands greater protection, don't allow yourself to be lulled into a false sense of security with gear. If you're combining high-speed with high-risk you are likely to get highly messed up if something goes awry, even if you are wearing top of the line professional race gear.
Sizing & Fit
Ideally motorcycle clothing should fit snug; which serves to prevent fabric flapping, avoid excess material bunching uncomfortably in the riding position.
In an unexpected get-off; snug fit keeps armor and/or abrasion resistant sections in the correct place. It also reduces chance for skin-shear (skin layers separating) and friction burns from the material and your skin sliding over each other under pressure at different rates.
Getting yourself measured should be done with a soft tailor-tape style measure, ideally with someone else doing the measuring to you for best results. If all you have is a metal tape retractable measure, you can get pretty close by using rope or twine to get the dimension and holding it up to your measurement reference of choice. Either way, measure 3 times and average the results for the best estimate.
Key Measurements:
- Shoulder Width - Measured across the back from shoulder edge to shoulder edge, tracking the natural curve of your back.
- Sleeve Length - Measured from the top of the shoulder (around where the top arm seams typically start) down the arm to the wrist, while your arm/shoulders are relaxed.
- Chest Circumference - Measured around the chest, under the armpits at your chest's widest point with your chest relaxed.
- Stomach Circumference - Measured around the stomach inline with your bellybutton while the stomach is relaxed.
- Waist Circumference is measured around your natural waist (3-4 fingers below your bellybutton and right above the hip joint). For women's clothing Waist can mean the 'high waist' (stomach circumference) as opposed to the 'natural waist', so confirm which the size chart uses.
Body Shape Considerations
- Broad Shoulders - If you aren't sure if you have them, divide your shoulder width by chest circumference. Should that result be greater than 0.45, e.g. 19" / 40" = 0.475, your shoulders are broader than typical. When you find yourself near the top of a size range chest without shoulder width listed in the chart, you may need to size up or risk dislocating a shoulder getting in/out of the jacket.
- Muscular Arms & Back - If you carry more bulk around biceps, triceps, etc. than most, then you might find pinching under the arm or constriction in the sleeve. If you are in between sizes, definitely consider sizing up.
- Long or Short Torso - The typical torso range is between 15-22" (38-56cm); where women tend toward the shorter end (~16"), and men tend toward the longer end (~18"). If you are more than 2" (5cm) either side of those gender averages you may have a challenge finding a good fit. Sizing up or down doesn't necessarily always address that, as some manufactures (looking at you REV'IT!) traditionally have had a single standard length across sizes.
Style of Cut
Depending on the country of origin and primary market for the jacket, sizing and cut can vary.
Typically American cuts have larger arm holes and are straight or flare slightly toward the waist, and a measurement like a 32" waist can have up to an extra 0.25-0.33" (6-9mm) of room depending on the maker.
While European cuts tend to be more tapered toward the waist and have narrower arm holes, plus they may only have 2-4mm (0.08-0.16") of wiggle room from the base measurement.
Features & Use Factors
Jackets with armor included will generally factor the armor present in the fit, while one with only pockets for armor may not as they won't be sure what armor you'll use. The type of armor also effects flexibility in joints they cover, so if you're planning to add a stiffer or thicker armor you may need extra wiggle room.
Likewise if you foresee layering under the jacket at some point, account for that in your measurement to ensure it still fits when you wear your favorite flannel, hoodie, etc. under it.
Types of Jackets
Not to be confused with 'styles' of jacket like sport, touring, or adventure use cases. Here we are referring to the more a fundamental division between material classes or types, which have their own general characteristics. However all of these types require the addition of armor to offer any impact resistance, which we'll cover armor later in this article.
Leather
Generally known for it's abrasion resistance and seemingly universal cool factor, leather has been a staple of motorcycle jackets through the ages. However, the details of the leather used do matter in terms of mechanical performance, comfort, and longevity as does the construction.
Pros:
- Good to excellent abrasion & puncture resistance
- Breaks-in; getting more comfortable & fitted over time
- Blocks wind (except if perforated) & resists flapping in the wind
- More insulative than most fabrics
Cons:
- Heavier & stiffer than other materials, especially in cold
- Break-in can be required; thicker/stiffer leather you must 'train' to bend where/how you do.
- Doesn't breath well
- Tends to absorb & be damaged by moisture
- Needs at least annual care to avoid drying/cracking long-term
Textile
While textile options have existed for motorcyclists since the beginning, originally they didn't offer abrasion resistance near leather. However, the last 20-25 years have seen seen major leaps forward in material science and manufacturing. As a result, there are fabrics on the market now that can exceed resistance of leather to abrasion and puncture while being lighter and more breathable.
Pros:
- Some types have superior abrasion & puncture resistance to leather
- Lighter weight than leather
- Moderate to good breathability
- Waterproofing options
- Low-maintenance and can be washed
- Wider array of colors, styles, and comfort features
Cons:
- Different textiles vary widely in abrasion & puncture resistance; so performance characteristics of the specific fabrics used, and where those are used is a bigger factor
- Some types can be damaged by prolonged exposure to UV/sun, heat, and certain chemicals like bleach or stain-removers (e.g. active oxygen, like OxiClean™)
- Lack of stiffness can lead to flapping in the wind
- Generally not as long lasting as leather
Mesh
As a solid fabric will never flow as much air and breath as well as bare skin, but while adding perforations will flow air it also decreases the abrasion & puncture resistance. It's compromise since any additional resistance is more than none; at one end of the spectrum you'll find a primarily solid panel construction with a few small mesh panels in strategic areas, and the other will have large mesh panels adding solid panels in strategic areas. Again advances in materials and manufacturing has improved that trade-off, but that trade off is generally still there.
Pros:
- Some can flow enough air at speed to make outside temperatures similar to your internal body temperature tolerable
- High-end options can have abrasion & puncture resistance close to many non-perforated textiles
- Lighter weight than leather
- Generally washable
Cons:
- Meshes vary widely in abrasion & puncture resistance, as will the non-mesh panels on the same, but will almost always be significantly less than the solid panels.
- Some types can be damaged by prolonged exposure to UV/sun, heat, and certain chemicals like bleach or stain-removers (e.g. active oxygen, like OxiClean™)
- Lack of stiffness can lead to flapping in the wind
- Generally not as long lasting as leather or solid textiles
Construction & Materials
You may be thinking this sounds a little redundant having talked about the types already, but this is where we get into details about your options in each and how that impacts those primary characteristics.
Leather Specifics
Fashion weight leathers tend to have 0.5-0.9mm thick panels. On the other hand Motorcycle leathers typically range 0.8-1.2mm which makes them stiffer & heavier, while professional race gear can go as high as 1.2-1.4mm and as a result can be a chore to beak-in & wear.
Lining found around the shoulders and elbows should be relatively slick/smooth and move independently of the main jacket body, to allow any friction forces in a slide to be between the jacket inner/outer vs. you & the jacket.
Motorcycle jackets often feature larger continuous panels with fewer seams to reduce the chance for bursting seams, as seams are a likely failure point. Many jackets often stitch in smaller panels overlapping seams in abrasion areas, such as the elbows and shoulders, to reduce the chance of seams in those locations giving way. Jackets should also have tighter/denser safety stitches on their seams than you find in fashion jackets, utilizing high-tensile/abrasion resistant thread to further reduce the chance of seam failures.
Types of Animal Leather:
- Cowhide - One of the most common leathers due to the size of the hides, scale of cattle operations, and mix of properties. It is relatively economical, has good strength, thickness, and is more insulating than most leathers. Yet that also results in a stiff and weighty leather.
- Lambskin - Strikes a balance between various leather characteristics. It weighs less and is more pliable than most leathers, making it comfortable to wear and feeling luxurious. While still tough and insulating it doesn't match a cowhide in either of those respects, so not a recommended pairing with high speed or high risk riding.
- Goatskin - Softer than some leathers thanks to its lanolin content, and pound for pound stronger than cow leather. It usually has a distinctive pebbled and ridged texture, which is tends to set it apart. If you see smooth goat then it's been sanded & coated, that compromises it's strength more than if done to a thicker base hide.
- Buffalo - Similar to cowhide; but thicker, stiffer, and harder wearing.
- Deerskin/Buckskin - Very soft, tough, light weight, and stretchy. Yet it's harder to work with and is not very economical, so it tends not to be used in jackets so much as gloves.
- Kangaroo - It's both lighter and stronger than goat leather, allowing the use of thinner layers while still being stronger. However, it tends to be expensive and you'll more often see it used in gloves.
Leather Grades:
- Full-grain - This is an intact hide/skin that hasn't been split or sanded, and because of this it results in the highest durability for the type of leather involved. It also makes it the most expensive, in spite of any visible blemishes or imperfections, as it is the least 'corrected' and only the best quality hides typically are chosen.
- Top-grain - Second highest grade after full-grain; a hide/skin with blemishes has had 'corrections' done (sanding/stamping/embossing), yet hasn't had the grain side completely removed. Still strong, but not as strong as full-grain due to the cosmetic alterations.
- Split-grain/PU Leathers - Thin low-grade/low-cost leather where the leather is laminated or coated to make it seem more substantial and improve the look/durability. Not suitable for use in motorcycle applications, often recognizable by feeling slicker, colder, and sticker than higher grade leathers.
Leather Jacket Features
Better featured jackets will include pockets for armor or already have armor in them, zippered/snap closure vents for airflow, gussets/accordion stretch panels for movement, waist adjustments for fit, belt connection loops/zippers, and various pockets for convenience. Thermal liners are often featured; yet often these are thin or aren't full sleeve length, leaving you better off with layering under the jacket in most cases.
Textile Specifics
You find a lot more variability in construction for textile jackets, a lot of that owing to technical functionality goals vs. protection goals.
From the protection side the same ideas in leather apply; design choices such as larger panels with fewer seams, tight/dense safety stitching using a high-tensile/abrasion resistant thread, and stitched in panels overlapping seams on the elbows and shoulders are generally good signs. Many textiles may be unlined, but the advice about linings for jackets still applies. Around the shoulders and elbows you want a relatively smooth/slick material that will not grip and/or rub your skin in a slide.
Well featured offerings often work in elasticated stretch panels in low abrasion areas, zippered/snap closure vents, fit adjustments, belt connection loops/zippers, pockets galore, thermal liners, and waterproofing membranes.
However, an important consideration is the primary shell fabric. Both in terms of the manufacture's material choice as well as it's density/weight.
Cotton/Denim
In terms of fabrics for abrasion and puncture resistance this is toward the low-end of the scale. While waxed or oiled varieties feel more substantial due to being stiffer and water resistant, that doesn't necessarily translate into a significant increase in abrasion or puncture resistance.
The weight is typically stated in ounces per square yard (oz/yd²) or grams per square meter (g/m²) is a key measure; where 5-10oz is generally light-weight, 10-16oz is mid-weight, and greater than 16oz is heavy-weight.
Cordura®
Originally developed by DuPont with Invista currently holding the rights to the Trademarks, it refers to a collection of various synthetic fiber based technologies. For motorcycle clothing the reference standard is generally T420 Nylon 6.6 based Cordura®, due to its higher melting-point of 509°F (265°C) and other desirable properties vs. polyester based alternatives.
However there's an official polyester variation 'Cordura® HP', as opposed to the 'Cordura® Classic' T420 Nylon 6.6 based one, which can make things more confusing as the properties aren't the same.
Then there are various clone fabrics which may or may not be functionally identical under various textile supplier specific names. As well products coming out of countries that don't respect international trademarks, labeling themselves things such as 'Asian Cordura' or similar when they are a non-similar material.
The weight for Cordura fabrics is typically stated in deniers (d); where 500d or higher is often present in motorcycle gear, with the higher deniers usually reserved for overlays on high abrasion risk areas. As higher deniers tend to be stiffer, thicker, and less comfortable.
Cordura® Denim
This is a blend of Invista Cordura® T420 nylon 6.6 fiber and cotton fiber woven into a composite fabric, and often is used to create a more abrasion resistant version of denim and cotton items. Some blends my include COOLMAX® fibers as well to improve the sweat wicking and breathablity characteristics.
Pluses are it looks and feels similar to normal cotton denim of a similar weight (stated in oz/yd²), but is much more abrasion resistant than normal denim. There by often allowing many garments using it to achieve CE A or AA ratings, while still retaining an overall casual/conventional denim appearance and breathablity.
Kevlar®/Aramids
DuPont™ Kevlar® fiber-based Aramid fabrics have brand recognition as the first para-aramid fibers on the market, but there are other brands as well. Aramids used in motorcycle clothing have good abrasion resistance, are 5 times stronger than carbon steel, lighter than fiberglass, are insulating, and have a melting-point over 932°F (500°C).
However they are difficult to dye, not very breathable, the insulation will keep you warm, and they are also sensitive to acids, salts, and UV which you'll likely encounter out in the elements. Which tends to relegate it to use cooler weather as linings sewn in under more conventional fabrics to increase abrasion resistance, there by making the best of Aramid's strengths and weaknesses.
Dyneema®/UHMWPE/HMPE
Dyneema® is a tradename for a UHMWPE fiber from DSM, and their corresponding Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) and weaving process technologies. Ultra-high Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE)/High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) is a subset of typical thermoplastic polyethylene, but longer chained and higher molecular weight resulting in an extremely tough fiber.
The fiber being 15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel and 5 times more than Aramids, while also being more resistant to chemicals and UV than Aramids. However it also tends to conduct heat (i.e. from friction with the ground), melts at a relatively low temperatures vs. other fibers, can be damaged by prolonged exposure to temperatures as low as 176°F (80 °C), and isn't as comfortable against the skin as traditional fabrics.
As a result UHMWPE is typically blended with additional fibers to achieve some trade-offs between it's properties and the other material. Most often in motorcycle clothing it appears as a UHMWPE woven with fibers such as cotton, to form a denim that is highly abrasion/cut resistant.
Dyneema® Denim
Dyneema® UHMWPE yarn, cotton yarns, and potentially other yarns are woven to create a denim like composite fabric. Which they advertise as being 20 times stronger than standard denim while offering all-day wearability, breathability, and comfort. The trade-offs being the higher the UHMWPE fiber percentage in the weave the greater the strength, but the less it feels/wears like traditional fabrics and higher heat transfer potential via the UHMWPE present in the fabric.
ARMALITH®
With ARMALITH® we're again looking at a tradename with more than one composition of fibers to make things complicated.
ARMALITH without any post-fix is the best known; a yarn made of a UHMWPE fiber filament wrapped by cotton fiber, and then those yarns are then woven together to form a denim style fabric. In theory this does permit a higher UHMWPE fiber concentration, while not as significantly changing the desirable properties of a resulting denim. Increasing strength and reducing potential for heat transfer via the UHMWPE fibers due to the cotton wrapping.
However, there's also an ARMALITH X-Light type which swaps the UHMWPE for a PA 6.6 HT fiber in a similar construction to what was just mentioned. Where PA 6.6 HT is just a generic name for a nylon 6.6/Cordura® fiber; i.e. one that wasn't produced under license from Invista. Making this comparable to a Cordura® Denim, if not slightly stronger and more denim like due to differences in how ARMALITH is woven.
Various Manufacture Specific Fabrics
There's just too many unique ones to list all the brand names, and most of them won't divulge their exact composition for sake of comparisons. These can generally be recognized compositing words like 'rock', 'max', 'ultra', 'tech', 'tex' etc. with something, and then a 3-4 digit number followed by 'd'. Some of them don't necessarily specify that the 'd' here represents denier, so that might just be part of the branding vs. representing the fabric weight.
As a result we CANNOT reliably compare these different fabrics to each other, Cordura, or anything else on that number alone. When the specific fibers and weave used are unknown; things like abrasion resistance at a particular denier, melting-points, and other properties you won't be able pin-down without lab testing.
In some cases manufactures will disclose independent lab testing results and/or have it tested for CE certification, which removes a lot of the ambiguity around performance. However, without that it really comes down to how much do you trust that your performance expectations for that fabric aligned with the manufacture's product development choices.
Armor
The subject of armor/impact-protectors is it's own topic all together, and there is a lot of debate around how much impact it absorbs along with it's value for fracture protection. Along with if they provide an inflated sense of security, leading to poorer risk management on the part of riders expecting that armor will save them.
However, what's not so much up for debate is that including armor in high impact areas provides significant enhancement to abrasion resistance vs. without it. In which case any impact protection gains provided may just be a bonus. Regardless when I'm offered to take full impact vs. slightly less than full impact, I'll take slightly less every time.
Additionally professional race garment makers have pointed out that when race suits are used without armor, they see a marked increase in catastrophic material failures on the track. As the armor will spread impacts across a wider area than very pointy joint bones, reducing the point-loading on the materials and seams.
I'd recommend getting a jacket that at least has pockets to accept armor for the shoulders, elbows, and back to have the option to add some later. Unfortunately a lot of jackets that include armor omit the back protection, leaving it unpopulated or filled with an unrated foam placeholder. As we're not fans of that, we apply an automatic discount toward a back protector when add a back protector to your cart with a jacket that doesn't include one already in your cart.
Multi-layer stiffer foam armors are the cheapest options that still achieve CE ratings for impact protection, but newer materials like those from D3O, SAS-Tec, and others tend to be more comfortable and in some instances do exceed CE rating requirements. However, if you plan to ride in temperatures at or near freezing be sure to check that the armor is rated for cold weather. As some will stiffen in the cold or don't provide their full rating under cold conditions.
However, if the jacket you love doesn't have pockets for armor there's always the option to wear an armored base-layer or dedicated protector that includes armor for the shoulders, elbows, and back under it.
More sport and race focused jackets may include plastic or metallic plates on areas like the shoulders encourage sliding vs. tumbling if your shoulder makes contact when you come off the bike.
As for armor fit, one size does not fit all. The CE standard labels specify Type A (smallest), Type B (medium), & Type C (large) in an area below the logo indicating it's for motorcycle use, and above the boxes for the Level & Temperature ratings. Where the idea is you should be using the size that covers the joint area fully without too much excess. Most manufactures however will just load all their clothing sizes with a sizing armor size as bulk buying armor in one size is less expensive. A reasonable rule of thumb is extra-small to small size clothing Type A will likely provide good coverage. Medium to Large size clothing the Type A or B may be appropriate depending the item's sizing and your limb/joint sizes. Large to XL a Type B is generally reasonable, unless you have longer/wider limbs than average in which case Type C. Finally if you're 2XL or larger you should aim for Type C armor sizing to ensure maximum joint coverage.
Waterproofing
Let me start off by saying that in almost all cases the most effective option will be to use dedicated rain gear that you put over whatever else you're wearing. Just by virtue of the fact rain gear is designed to primarily address one thing, keeping the water out, limits the compromises it needs to make.
Waxed/Oiled Cotton
When it comes to the natural fabrics like cotton they maybe waxed or oiled to provide water resistance. This generally works quite well for keeping the rain off, but it must be re-applied every few years to maintain that water resistance. Naturally breathability is pretty much non-existent once you've coated the fabric, so don't expect these will be airy or breathable. Naturally as the exterior beads water, they tend to dry quickly.
Polymer coatings
Just like it sounds, a polymer coating added to some fabric. This will keep the jacket from wetting out and can keep you dry. Downside is it looks and feels like it's coated in plastic, and breaths about as well as that implies.
Drop-liners/Membranes
Not to be confused with removable waterproof membrane, these are sewn in waterproof liners where it hangs/drops loosely inside the jacket vs. being sewn tightly to the outer. Effectively like wearing rain gear on the inside connected at points your body sticks out.
If you're in the rain less than 2 hours at a time; they typically remain quite effective at keeping your body dry, due to few if any seams to leak through. Downsides are they don't breath, moisture will accumulate between the inner and outer where it can sap warmth, and drying time can be longer than other options due to that accumulation.
Removable Liners/Membranes
Similar to the last, but with the flexibility to be removed for better airflow when you don't need waterproofing. Performance can be similar to drop-liners/membranes for the most part, but they do introduce more potential failure points via their extra seams and attachment points with the jacket outer.
Laminated Membranes/Gore-Tex®/Hipora®
Originally introduced and patented by W. L. Gore & Associates under the tradename Gore-Tex®, there is now a field of various implementations like Hipora® and manufacture in-house versions. The basic idea is laminate fabric with a hydrophobic treatment on the outer with an inner plastic membrane having microscopic perforations big enough to allow gases and water vapor to pass, but small enough that water droplets can't.
The hydrophobic treatment of the fabric keeps most water beading and running off, which delays (yet doesn't eliminate) the fabric wetting out. Meanwhile the membrane bonded to fabric can still breath enough to allow some moisture from sweat to escape out as it evaporates, while preventing water from passing across. Also, with fabric & membrane bonded you won't get water trapped between the fabric and membrane to chill you out.
As a result these jackets tend to stay drier and more comfortable in a wider range of conditions with minimal bulk, and the exterior of the fabric tends to dry faster. Still as membrane equals plastic bag, even when it has tons of microscopic holes in it. When tempratures rise above 75°F (~24°C) you may find it a bit warm and humid inside the jacket, at 85°F (~30°C) and above that quickly becomes hot and soaked in sweat.
The difference between the brand name Gore-Tex® with it's premium price-tag and others is in the details of the implementation. Membranes are simple with low odds of failure, but there can be a lot of seams in a jacket. So the seam design and taping process absolutely is critical to waterproofing performance and longevity.
Licenses for Gore-Tex come with conditions that mean Gore is heavily involved with decades of experience in every step to ensure manufactures can't besmirch the Gore-Tex® reputation. So Gore will back that up with a guarantee for the lifetime of the original owner, regardless the warranty period for the manufacture your purchased from.
Meanwhile jacket manufactures typically try to reduce material cost, contract the lowest bidding factories, and offer warranty periods in months to a few years. As the performance and longevity tends to be less about the specific membrane used than the skill, care, and attention applied in the jacket's design and manufacturing. It's about trust; do you put more in Gore's reputation or the jacket manufacture's.